Anything Shot with a 1Dx mark II

Jack Douglas said:
Mikehit said:
If you have to magnify the image to 200%, is it a problem? You can say 'it should not happen' which is fair enough but if you had to do this to notice the droplets - is it a problem?

Why do you need to use a telephoto lens in AV mode?

I tend to agree, especially after PBD has chimed in that dust and spatter generally is not that big of a problem. I have quite a bit of spatter and in certain cases with some cropping it's showing. Here is my shot of the sky (crop of the top left 1/4 of FF).

I had oil spots on my 1D4 that I cleaned off using the VisibleDust kit for oil and I had to repeat many times, including purchasing numerous spare wipe sticks to get it half decent. Not something I plan to do again since I'm not the steadiest guy.

Jack

I had dust/oil issues from day one, not just a few I mean loads, CPS told me to get the camera exchanged for a new one rather than clean it, next one also so had issues, I posted some pics here but soon got told to get a life and go shoot, after about a month of no 1DX2 I decided the camera was just too good elsewhere to not have one so I left it a while and got another, I don't care to check this one so I just shoot and never look for dust or oil, your soft issues raise an eyebrow with me as sometime I feel my images are a little soft, but I guess that's 20MP for you, once that was a good number, even with the best glass 500/4ii I often feel my focus is a smidge off, I don't bother to over analyse and start AFMA my glass as I try to focus (no pun) on the shot more so and be a photographer, the geek in me wants to pick the camera to bits, as much as I love it it's not perfection. My 5D3 on the other hand has been just that for many years, never an image IQ issue and is stellar with my big lense, I plan to get a 5D4 soon as the next firmware and mods have been added that they are doing now, I feel it will make a great body given the AF and MP count, I'd like a 5DSR too but I don't plan to have more than two bodies at anyone time, even with the minor niggles I still choose the 1DX2 for anything I plan to shoot, I was unable to give it up.
 
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Jack Douglas

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arthurbikemad said:
Jack Douglas said:
Mikehit said:
If you have to magnify the image to 200%, is it a problem? You can say 'it should not happen' which is fair enough but if you had to do this to notice the droplets - is it a problem?

Why do you need to use a telephoto lens in AV mode?

I tend to agree, especially after PBD has chimed in that dust and spatter generally is not that big of a problem. I have quite a bit of spatter and in certain cases with some cropping it's showing. Here is my shot of the sky (crop of the top left 1/4 of FF).

I had oil spots on my 1D4 that I cleaned off using the VisibleDust kit for oil and I had to repeat many times, including purchasing numerous spare wipe sticks to get it half decent. Not something I plan to do again since I'm not the steadiest guy.

Jack

I had dust/oil issues from day one, not just a few I mean loads, CPS told me to get the camera exchanged for a new one rather than clean it, next one also so had issues, I posted some pics here but soon got told to get a life and go shoot, after about a month of no 1DX2 I decided the camera was just too good elsewhere to not have one so I left it a while and got another, I don't care to check this one so I just shoot and never look for dust or oil, your soft issues raise an eyebrow with me as sometime I feel my images are a little soft, but I guess that's 20MP for you, once that was a good number, even with the best glass 500/4ii I often feel my focus is a smidge off, I don't bother to over analyse and start AFMA my glass as I try to focus (no pun) on the shot more so and be a photographer, the geek in me wants to pick the camera to bits, as much as I love it it's not perfection. My 5D3 on the other hand has been just that for many years, never an image IQ issue and is stellar with my big lense, I plan to get a 5D4 soon as the next firmware and mods have been added that they are doing now, I feel it will make a great body given the AF and MP count, I'd like a 5DSR too but I don't plan to have more than two bodies at anyone time, even with the minor niggles I still choose the 1DX2 for anything I plan to shoot, I was unable to give it up.

I finally got a sunny day last week where I could follow all of Canon's instructions so they could evaluate my AF via RAW shots, but it still comes back to this. I use ISO 100 rarely, likewise one-shot and I seldom have lighting such as for the test shots, so what will this prove. For me, other than softness complaints (which I acknowledge could be just be fussing as you've implied) my biggest complaint has been the inconsistency of AF. Why so many shots with a spot focus point bang on and yet the result being OOF?!

I've told them I want to send it in but haven't yet heard back from them to start the process. I agree about 20 MP being a "shortcoming" for at least some of us regarding this camera. I'm sure someone who shoots football from the sidelines couldn't care less. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little disappointed in this purchase and yet in many ways it is so nice - conflicted before and after the purchase. :-\

Jack
 
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Jack I've not scrutinised the cameras AF consistency like you have but I am sure you know what's what with your camera, for the record I feel exactly the same as you. I am not sure I regret the purchase but I sure do feel a little dissapointed in the IQ, given that I took some fab shots with a 1200D mounted to my 500/4 I found myself in fits of hysterical laughter hahahaha
 
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Jack Douglas

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arthurbikemad said:
Jack I've not scrutinised the cameras AF consistency like you have but I am sure you know what's what with your camera, for the record I feel exactly the same as you. I am not sure I regret the purchase but I sure do feel a little dissapointed in the IQ, given that I took some fab shots with a 1200D mounted to my 500/4 I found myself in fits of hysterical laughter hahahaha

A person can drive themselves nuts. Like you with the 5D3, I've done just fine for 4 years with the 6D, so why should I be running into this. Have I fried my brain?

One thing, though, I did shoot a lot of back lit photos from my (open) window and that's not something I was in the habit of doing in general when I'm out and about so now that it's warmer I'll be getting a better comparison.

I probably can't/shouldn't justify a 5D4 but I just might get one. It all depends on how the light and handy 6D2 specs out. It must have better AF and F8 capability, be closer to 30 MP and hopefully have around 6 FPS or it's no go.

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas said:
I use ISO 100 rarely, likewise one-shot and I seldom have lighting such as for the test shots, so what will this prove.

ISO 100 has the least noise so will show maximum sharpness if everything else is working as it should: the aim here is not testing photos you like to take, but testing the system capabilities. If the ISO 100 proves good and sharp then you may have to accept the 1Dx2 is not suited to your style of photography.

One review I read not so long ago took great pains to point out that the great images you see with the 1Dx2 have been taken by great photographers - wildlife experts who know fieldcraft to get the shot with minimal cropping, or sports photographers who get passes to the sidelines of the great sports events.

However (and it is a big 'however') if you are convinced that the 6D in the same circumstances will be sharper then that is a real concern - I can't recall if you have done that comparison side by side.
 
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Jack I'm defo getting a 5D4 and will use the 1DX2 for my action stuff or just more demanding shots, I KNOW the 5D4 will do my head in more so when shooting birds over the 1DX2 in regards to IQ. Same as I know I will never have the right camera mounted when I am out and about ;)
Well you have to try these things Jack, it's the only way to cure those sleepless nights haha
 
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Jack Douglas

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Mikehit said:
Jack Douglas said:
I use ISO 100 rarely, likewise one-shot and I seldom have lighting such as for the test shots, so what will this prove.

ISO 100 has the least noise so will show maximum sharpness if everything else is working as it should: the aim here is not testing photos you like to take, but testing the system capabilities. If the ISO 100 proves good and sharp then you may have to accept the 1Dx2 is not suited to your style of photography.

One review I read not so long ago took great pains to point out that the great images you see with the 1Dx2 have been taken by great photographers - wildlife experts who know fieldcraft to get the shot with minimal cropping, or sports photographers who get passes to the sidelines of the great sports events.

However (and it is a big 'however') if you are convinced that the 6D in the same circumstances will be sharper then that is a real concern - I can't recall if you have done that comparison side by side.

Mike, your points are valid and no I haven't side by side. One issue is the 6D doesn't AF at F8, which is my "just had to have, favorite 400 X2 new toy". My feeling was that the 6D with 300 X2 was no better than 1DX2 with 400 X1.4 so that was positive. However, I've gotten too many 800mm OOF shots when the spot square was right on the money. Never the less, I don't discount the points you've made because there have been a lot of variables that need to be taken out of the equation and I've been too busy and it's been dreary old (cold) winter until recently.

Another thing, some of my 300 X2 shots with the 6D were from my observatory and barely cropped so extremely nice. Now the 400 doesn't focus as close so I've got to consider my prop setup or use extension tubes and so forth and I haven't shot from there all winter so no 1DX2 comparisons.

I certainly was not pleased that the 1DX2 only got 20 MP but I chose to purchase it, regardless.

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas

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arthurbikemad said:
Jack I'm defo getting a 5D4 and will use the 1DX2 for my action stuff or just more demanding shots, I KNOW the 5D4 will do my head in more so when shooting birds over the 1DX2 in regards to IQ. Same as I know I will never have the right camera mounted when I am out and about ;)
Well you have to try these things Jack, it's the only way to cure those sleepless nights haha

I know exactly what you're saying. However, my finances are not quite a match for my dreams! ;)

Seriously, I'd rather have a single camera when I'm hiking and I like 1 series features. The 1DX2 has the most amazing AF programmability now that I've figure it out, not sure if the 5D4 has all of those features.

Jack
 
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Viggo said:
Went another round with my 200, and adjusted with tip from one thread here with the idea that both near and far dof limit should be equally oof, and I thought my 200 might be a little in front and indded it was. Went from +3 to +5 and now it's back to it's insanely sharp self.

The distribution of oof ratio from front to back varies with focal length, with the 200 it is 49% front to 51% back, with a 20mm lens it is 40% front to 60% back.

So microadjusting should always have more in focus behind the plane of focus than in front of the plane of focus, just varying amounts depending on focal length. For ease of setup any lens 100mm or over is simplest set at 50/50 front back from the plane of focus.
 
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privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
Went another round with my 200, and adjusted with tip from one thread here with the idea that both near and far dof limit should be equally oof, and I thought my 200 might be a little in front and indded it was. Went from +3 to +5 and now it's back to it's insanely sharp self.

The distribution of oof ratio from front to back varies with focal length, with the 200 it is 49% front to 51% back, with a 20mm lens it is 40% front to 60% back.

So microadjusting should always have more in focus behind the plane of focus than in front of the plane of focus, just varying amounts depending on focal length. For ease of setup any lens 100mm or over is simplest set at 50/50 front back from the plane of focus.

Isn't that highly dependent on focusing distance?
 
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Sporgon

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privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
Went another round with my 200, and adjusted with tip from one thread here with the idea that both near and far dof limit should be equally oof, and I thought my 200 might be a little in front and indded it was. Went from +3 to +5 and now it's back to it's insanely sharp self.

The distribution of oof ratio from front to back varies with focal length, with the 200 it is 49% front to 51% back, with a 20mm lens it is 40% front to 60% back.

So microadjusting should always have more in focus behind the plane of focus than in front of the plane of focus, just varying amounts depending on focal length. For ease of setup any lens 100mm or over is simplest set at 50/50 front back from the plane of focus.

Interesting ! I thought it was always one third in front, two thirds behind irrespective of the focal length. Maybe this is why I have had poor success with the focus peaking and manual lenses at greater distances, where the purple 'peaking' zone is quite wide, but the actual point of accurate focus is within this - somewhere !
 
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Jan 29, 2011
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Viggo said:
privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
Went another round with my 200, and adjusted with tip from one thread here with the idea that both near and far dof limit should be equally oof, and I thought my 200 might be a little in front and indded it was. Went from +3 to +5 and now it's back to it's insanely sharp self.

The distribution of oof ratio from front to back varies with focal length, with the 200 it is 49% front to 51% back, with a 20mm lens it is 40% front to 60% back.

So microadjusting should always have more in focus behind the plane of focus than in front of the plane of focus, just varying amounts depending on focal length. For ease of setup any lens 100mm or over is simplest set at 50/50 front back from the plane of focus.

Isn't that highly dependent on focusing distance?

Yes, as you focus closer the distribution shifts towards the front on all lenses.

As an example; FF camera, 16mm lens, f4, focused at 5 feet is 15%/85% front/back, at 4 feet it is 22%/78%.
 
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Dec 13, 2010
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privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
privatebydesign said:
Viggo said:
Went another round with my 200, and adjusted with tip from one thread here with the idea that both near and far dof limit should be equally oof, and I thought my 200 might be a little in front and indded it was. Went from +3 to +5 and now it's back to it's insanely sharp self.

The distribution of oof ratio from front to back varies with focal length, with the 200 it is 49% front to 51% back, with a 20mm lens it is 40% front to 60% back.

So microadjusting should always have more in focus behind the plane of focus than in front of the plane of focus, just varying amounts depending on focal length. For ease of setup any lens 100mm or over is simplest set at 50/50 front back from the plane of focus.

Isn't that highly dependent on focusing distance?

Yes, as you focus closer the distribution shifts towards the front on all lenses.

As an example; FF camera, 16mm lens, f4, focused at 5 feet is 15%/85% front/back, at 4 feet it is 22%/78%.

Great, thanks! :D
 
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Jack Douglas

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Scott, goes to show you have to be careful with advice. This threw me off until, after much frustration, I concluded by observation that it simply wasn't 50-50 and something was wrong.

In case anyone is interested in seeing the RAW files I provided according to Canon's instruction, here they are:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2ySR23ld7gXRk8xVVdMMVlaNVE

I set the targets on 2" grid stucco wire for lack of any better solution. My own 45 degree target is IMHO better but they didn't want it. Mirror lock, remote release plus whatever they specified, with the objects close to filling the field.

I presently have the AFMA for 800mm at +3.

Jack
 
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Jack Douglas said:
Mikehit said:
If you have to magnify the image to 200%, is it a problem? You can say 'it should not happen' which is fair enough but if you had to do this to notice the droplets - is it a problem?

Why do you need to use a telephoto lens in AV mode?

I tend to agree, especially after PBD has chimed in that dust and spatter generally is not that big of a problem. I have quite a bit of spatter and in certain cases with some cropping it's showing. Here is my shot of the sky (crop of the top left 1/4 of FF).

I had oil spots on my 1D4 that I cleaned off using the VisibleDust kit for oil and I had to repeat many times, including purchasing numerous spare wipe sticks to get it half decent. Not something I plan to do again since I'm not the steadiest guy.

Jack

I noticed oil spots on my 1DX MK II when using a 400mm F4 for Solar and Lunar shots. They either cleaned off or cloned/stamped off easily enough.

Canon 1DX MK II & Canon 400mm F4 DO + 2XIII @F16, ISO 640 1/160. Just sold off my 400mm F4 DO and picked up a 500mm F4 IS. Excited!
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