More Detailed Specifications for the Canon EOS 6D Mark II

[wildwalker]

P.S. I think I get it now... your are talking in 720p, 1080p, 2160p referring to the vertical resolution. Fair enough, but 2K, 4K, whatever K is about the horizontal resolution in thousands of pixels to rounded. So yes 1080p equal 2K and 2160p equal to 4K

Correct, in the broadcast world we almost never mention the horizontal resolution, people will just ask, is it 1080? is it 720p etc?

OTT gets messy as you can have custom resolutions, so you never know what you are going to get!

We talk about UHD in terms of broadcast UHD, so 3840x2160p. However Cinema 4K is actually 4K, ala 4096x3840.

I think the reason for the difference is that early broadcast used 4xHD channels (so 4x1920x1080) to carry UHD systems, then stitched the video back together in a combiner or in the screen itself, hence the 3840 instead of 4096 horizontal resolution for broadcast.

 

[MayaTlab]

This is ridiculous.
Who makes a camera for working professionals with a sync speed of 180?
why canon why?

Why do you think Canon made this for working professionals?

Agreed, this is a consumer grade product. A professional will use professional products, 5x and 1x.

I think there's a lot more overlap between pro and enthusiast than you think. Pros might use 6Ds and Enthusiasts might own 5- and 1- series cameras.

Not only that, but it's ludicrous to think that there is such a thing as a "professional camera". There are professional applications, that's what there are. You don't even need to be a photographer to use your camera for professional reasons. An archeologist documenting a site with his 80D is using his camera for professional reasons and if it fails, the excavation won't stop and patiently wait until Canon services have repaired it.

I'm ready to bet all my camera equipment that there are more people using Canon cameras other than the 5D and 1D series for professional reasons than 5D and 1D users doing so.

 

[Diltiazem]

I always find the comments about a specific camera in a forum like this to be more interesting than the camera itself.

Despite that, I will be buying the 6D II.

 

[Sharlin]

Oh my god the quality of some of the comments is so bad it would be hilarious if it weren't so sad.

"I can't believe Canon didn't add a card bus much faster than what the camera can actually use" (doubly ludicruous if also referring to some completely unsupported modifications that a group of hackers might be able to come up with in five years, as if Canon had some mandate to add unlockable features to their cameras)

"I can't believe Canon didn't put feature X in this professional-grade camera" when it's abundantly clear that the 6D series is aimed at the enthusiast crowd, with pretty much the exact feature set as in the xxD series. Yes, the 80D has 1/8000s and 1/250s but its shutter is 2.5x lighter and has a 1.6x shorter distance to travel.

 

[Koen Van de moortel]

This is ridiculous.
Who makes a camera for working professionals with a sync speed of 180?
why canon why?

Why do you think Canon made this for working professionals?

This doesn't matter at all, since you will have to use an external flash anyway, which allows you to use high speed sync.

Agreed, this is a consumer grade product. A professional will use professional products, 5x and 1x.

 

[SecureGSM]

Professional will use whatever gets the job done. there is nothing that can stop a professional photographer from taking professional quaity images with 6D unless you are in highly specialised fast action genre that requires fast moving subject tracking, high frame rate, shooting very large apperture glass wide open (thin DoF) in AF mode or extreme ruggedness of the body (extreme outdoors).
There are plenty of professional photographers shooting with 6Ds out there. Dustin Abbott is one of them.
p.s. I explained the 1/180 <--> 1/160 X-Sync limitation (annoyance) for the studio photographers who routinely use light meters a few post above.

Agreed, this is a consumer grade product. A professional will use professional products, 5x and 1x.

 

[aceflibble]

12 pages of comments and only about 4 people have demonstrated they grasp what this camera is for.

This, people, is why companies like Canon don't pay much attention to user/fan forums. Y'all are getting pissy that they've not made a 1DX2 at half the size and a fifth the price.

 

[Redline]

12 pages of comments and only about 4 people have demonstrated they grasp what this camera is for.

This, people, is why companies like Canon don't pay much attention to user/fan forums. Y'all are getting pissy that they've not made a 1DX2 at half the size and a fifth the price.

Yep.

I was telling my g/f last night how much I enjoy reading everyone complaining about what they want for so much less. Just I didn't confuse her with all the camera lingo, I told her it's like reading reviews of people that bought a brand new Camry and they're whining because their suspension is poor or the road noise is terrible and expect a Lexus performance out of a $25,000 car. Come on people...

It's one thing to wish certain features but no, one is not enough. For all we know someone out there is complaining about the new 6D MKII box having sharp corners :

 

[cerealito]

Y'all are getting pissy that they've not made a 1DX2 at half the size and a fifth the price.

that would still lack a vari-angle lcd screen ;D

 

[ExodistPhotography]

I can't believe they couldn't give a 1/200th sync speed. If they are at 1/18, and if all their other shutters are 1/200th it seems an unnecessary bit of skimpage but oh well. I'll still buy it.

I agree.. 1/180th??? What is this 1990..

 

[tron]

The 1/180 vs 1/200 comments make me want to say:

26.2 million pixels only ? ? ? ? This is 2017. The camera should have at least 26.4 million pixels ;D ;D ;D ;D

 

[Klimbim]

The 1/180 vs 1/200 comments make me want to say:

26.2 million pixels only ? ? ? ? This is 2017. The camera should have at least 26.4 million pixels ;D ;D ;D ;D

I really don't get it, what is the deal about the 1/180 vs. 1/200? What limitations does that mean for someone in realworld conditions? Can someone give me an example? That is a real question, as I love taking pictures with flashlight. Baybe I am not aware of something...

 

[SecureGSM]

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=32889.msg671270#msg671270

very real, first hand experience. I hope it helps.

The 1/180 vs 1/200 comments make me want to say:

26.2 million pixels only ? ? ? ? This is 2017. The camera should have at least 26.4 million pixels ;D ;D ;D ;D

I really don't get it, what is the deal about the 1/180 vs. 1/200? What limitations does that mean for someone in realworld conditions? Can someone give me an example? That is a real question, as I love taking pictures with flashlight. Baybe I am not aware of something...

 

[tr573]

Scroll down to the 1/2 power. It looks like that. I am between 1/4 to 1/2 power on the flash heads. Keep in mind the heads are 640 watts each and I am using big aluminum dish long throw reflector. If I am 1/4 to 1/2 power level ,I can take a 2nd or 3rd photo without having to wait for the flash to cycle.



I.E. The highest wheelie i had of this car was on the 3rd shot. I try to make my best guess at when I should take the photo, but some wheelie higher.

oh wow, I totally missed that. Hah!

I've always considered the hypersync/supersync/whatever anyone else calls it workaround to be a "full power only" solution, but I can see how the pattern for the 1DX can be useful to you since you can just crop the top/bottom.

 

[tr573]

It's pretty much irrelevant when using the flash indoors. Not sure what all the noise is about. Even 1/250s is pathetic and useless when trying to over power the sun or even just add some fill. Also the camera doesn't let me set 1/180 with my manual flash so I end up at 1/160. It's all about controlling the ambient light and having more range just gives more control. A bit like the discussion of max shutter speed of 1/4000 vs 1/8000 (and that one is a full stop so there is at least a case). The difference in the 1/180 vs 1/200 is probably like really blown out background vs blown out background with a few specs of detail.

Like you mentioned you can just use an ND filter. Personally I've never used an ND as I use the flash indoors mostly in controlled conditions like my home. Using ISO 50 is also an option though one I don't like to use.

The other issue you might run into is when trying to nuke all background light and have flash as the only light source. That's when a tiny bit of extra shutter speed helps. Again this can usually be fixed in post by adding shadows or blacks and is mostly unnoticeable.

Edit - also a little trick I sometimes use. I set 1/200 shutter speed and just crop out the black bar caused by the slow shutter curtain. If you shoot vertical it's even less noticeable (use a black background and it's a non issue). With 26Mpix I'm sure there will be enough pixels left after this trick.

This is how I see it. It's a bit of an annoyance because it changes your metering from 1/3 stops to 1/2 stops for SS, without changing it for aperture (or on your flash meter), but it's not the end of the world, just means doing some extra thinking. Whether you buy a 6D, 5D, or 1DX, you still need a lot of freaking power to overcome the sun because we don't have good global e-shutter yet. Someday, Someday...

I read Mark Kitaoka's writeup on using the Godox/Adorama 1200W head for the AD600 (wire 2 together - supposedly a 4 unit 2400W head is coming too) in the Mohave, and was very impressed. That is a lot of power for not a lot (relatively) of money, on li-ion battery packs to boot.

 

[neuroanatomist]

It is all about mismatch between the light meter set in 1/3 of a stop steps and 1/180 being not part of that scale. It is on 1/2 of a stop scale instead. So.. 1/160 and 1/200 are 1/3 of a stop steps. 1/180 is 1/2 of a stop step

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=32889.msg671270#msg671270

Sorry, I don't get the problem. The 6D/6DII have a 1/4000 s max shutter speed, but that doesn't mean you must take every shot at 1/4000 s. No one is forcing you to set your shutter speed at the 1/180 s Xsync, either (in fact, to set that speed, you must change your camera from the default 1/3-stop increment to 1/2-stop increments, and most of us are 'trained' to think in 1/3-stops). More likely, you'll just leave the camera at the default increment, and use 1/160 s if you want to reduce ambient as much as possible. It's hard to imagine a situation where that 1/6-stop would have a meaningful impact on a shot. Use 1/160 s, there's no problem...except that little niggle in your head that you're not using the fastest possible shutter with flash. But if that bothers you, so should taking a shot at 1/3200 s, or driving around without your gas pedal floored.

Now, if what you really mean is that you want 1/200 s Xsync and not lower, that's a different problem (and quite different from how you framed the issue). In that case, don't buy a 6DII.

 

[tr573]

It is all about mismatch between the light meter set in 1/3 of a stop steps and 1/180 being not part of that scale. It is on 1/2 of a stop scale instead. So.. 1/160 and 1/200 are 1/3 of a stop steps. 1/180 is 1/2 of a stop step

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=32889.msg671270#msg671270

Sorry, I don't get the problem. The 6D/6DII have a 1/4000 s max shutter speed, but that doesn't mean you must take every shot at 1/4000 s. No one is forcing you to set your shutter speed at the 1/180 s Xsync, either (in fact, to set your you must change your camera from the default 1/3-stop increment to 1/2-stop increments, and most of us are 'trained' to think in 1/3-stops). More likely, you'll just leave the camera at the default increment, and use 1/160 s if you want to reduce ambient as much as possible. It's hard to imagine a situation where that 1/6-stop would have a meaningful impact on a shot. Use 1/160 s, there's no problem...except that little niggle in your head that you're not using the fastest possible shutter with flash. But if that bothers you, so should taking a shot at 1/3200 s, or driving around without your gas pedal floored.

It will actually let you set it to 1/180 even in 1/3 stop mode , provided you have a TTL flash attached, which is kind of a weird UI quirk. (You set 1/200, it drops it to 1/180 if the flash is attached and ready to fire automatically)

But yeah, still not a dramatic problem.

 

[neuroanatomist]

It will actually let you set it to 1/180 even in 1/3 stop mode , provided you have a TTL flash attached, which is kind of a weird UI quirk. (You set 1/200, it drops it to 1/180 if the flash is attached and ready to fire automatically)

But yeah, still not a dramatic problem.

Didn't know that, thanks. But you can still set 1/160 s, I presume...in which case it's consistent with the 1/3-stop increments of the light meter (assuming that 1/6-stop matters for the ambient lighting, which as I stated, I don't think is a credible assertion).

 

[tr573]

Didn't know that, thanks. But you can still set 1/160 s, I presume...in which case it's consistent with the 1/3-stop increments of the light meter (assuming that 1/6-stop matters for the ambient lighting, which as I stated, I don't think is a credible assertion).

Yup, you can.

 

[SecureGSM]

ok, there is no problem.. I do use 1/160s shutter of course. the annoyance is not being able to use the X-Sync speed to it fullest extent - 1/180 . I mentioned few times: no problem there. it just does not quite make sense, a silly number , cause it is somewhat in between.
As you know, ambient light is never an issue shooting in studio especially if you normaly shoot at flash to ambient ration being 100/0

.except that little niggle in your head that you're not using the fastest possible shutter with flash

yes, you get it! the annoyance of something that is not quite as you would like it to be. I know about compromises in my life full well. Thank you!
but.. for the same "convenience" reason Mr. Neuro owns how many photo bags of various sizes and how many tripods? because we like things being convenient , sensible, well designed and appropiate for the task.
once again, no complaining. I love my 6Ds, but few things are sub optimal for my use but still manageable.

P.S. yes, you can get to 1/180s and 1/3 of shutter in AV mode. ettl or not. but not the use case I am talking about:
1. you do not shoot in studio in ETTL or Av / Tv mode, do you?
2.being issue only if you have to use light meter. here is the routing:
set light meter to "T" mode, select you shutter speed - bang! you cannot set the 1/180 shutter speed in lightmeter unless you switched your lightmeter to 1/2 of a stop mode.
but once you did that, your resulting F number will be displayed in 1/2 stop increments as well and you have your F stop set in camera in 1/3 of a stop increments..
solution #1: set T value in light meter at 1/160 and carry on.
solution #2: set light meter in full stop increments. and get all values indicated in 1/10 of a stop increments. That realy does my head, sorry as you deal with values like: F2.2 (two and two tenth), 4.7 (4 and 7 tenth), and have to convert hundred times backwards and forwards those numbers into traditional 1/3 of a stop scale. Waaaay to much for my weak brain

It is all about mismatch between the light meter set in 1/3 of a stop steps and 1/180 being not part of that scale. It is on 1/2 of a stop scale instead. So.. 1/160 and 1/200 are 1/3 of a stop steps. 1/180 is 1/2 of a stop step

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=32889.msg671270#msg671270

Sorry, I don't get the problem. The 6D/6DII have a 1/4000 s max shutter speed, but that doesn't mean you must take every shot at 1/4000 s. No one is forcing you to set your shutter speed at the 1/180 s Xsync, either (in fact, to set that speed, you must change your camera from the default 1/3-stop increment to 1/2-stop increments, and most of us are 'trained' to think in 1/3-stops). More likely, you'll just leave the camera at the default increment, and use 1/160 s if you want to reduce ambient as much as possible. It's hard to imagine a situation where that 1/6-stop would have a meaningful impact on a shot. Use 1/160 s, there's no problem...except that little niggle in your head that you're not using the fastest possible shutter with flash. But if that bothers you, so should taking a shot at 1/3200 s, or driving around without your gas pedal floored.

Now, if what you really mean is that you want 1/200 s Xsync and not lower, that's a different problem (and quite different from how you framed the issue). In that case, don't buy a 6DII.