More Detailed Specifications for the Canon EOS 6D Mark II

[ahsanford]

The big question as to whether or not I'll upgrade my 6D body to this one is if the focus screens can be easily swapped. My guess is no.

The swappable focus screen seems to be the last question I have as well. I really enjoyed the high precision screen on the original 6D, I'll be a tad disappointed if we lose that feature. And it's not that I ever really manual focused. I just liked the peace of mind that I felt I could get a visual confirmation that AF scored a "hit" when shooting fast glass wide open.

On a positive note, I am glad to see (although I expected we would) the latest generation of metering system with RGB, anti flicker, etc that started with the 7D2.

Is it still a question in light of the leaks? I thought the tell-tale latch/button feature (to get access to the screen) you can see from the front view of the leaked photos was not there for the 6D2.

It would appear that the 6D2 isn't getting this, which (as a positive) might imply it's default / main screen is getting some 5D-level love here. I appreciate the binary 'Can I or can't I shoot my f/1.4 Zeiss glass on this?' need, but I don't think Canon would just make this a takeaway over the 6D1.

- A

 

[[email protected]]

<strong>Canon EOS 6D Mark II Specifications</strong> (Google Translated)</p>
<ul>
<li>Number of effective pixels: 26.2 million pixels (total number of pixels: 27.1 million pixels)</li>
<li>DIGIC 7</li>
<li>45 points AF – All Crosstype</li>
<li>Dual pixel CMOS AF</li>
<li>7560 pixels RGB + IR metering sensor</li>
<li>Viewfinder: 98% coverage</li>
<li>Viewfinder magnification: 0.71x</li>
<li>Continuous: Up to 6.5 frames / sec (up to about 4 frames / sec when servo AF is set for Live View shooting)</li>
<li>Standard ISO: 100 – 40000 (extended ISO: 50 [L], 51200 [H 1], 102400 [H 2])</li>
<li>Shutter speed: 1/4000 to 30 seconds</li>
<li>Sync Speed 1/180</li>
<li>Video: Full HD 60p</li>
<li>5 Axis Electronic Image Stabilization</li>
<li>Time lapse movie (4K output)</li>
<li>Anti-flicker</li>
<li>Wi-Fi</li>
<li>Bluetooth</li>
<li>NFC</li>
<li>GPS</li>
<li>Electronic level</li>
<li>Battery: LP-E6N / LP-E6</li>
<li>Number of pictures per charge: Approx. 1200 pictures (when viewfinder shooting)</li>
<li>Media: SD / SDHC / SDXC card (UHS-I card compatible)</li>
<li>Size: 144.0 x 110.5 x 74.8 mm</li>
<li>Weight: 685 g (body only), 765 g (including battery and SD card)</li>
<li>Kit lens: “EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM”, “EF 24-105mm f/4L IS II USM”, “EF 24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM”</li>
</ul>
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When a Canon camera with UHS-II?

 

[tr573]

1/6 of the stop.. right... but could be such a pain in the neck. let me explain:

My Sekonic 478 light meter operates in full, 1/2, or 1/3 of a stop mode. If I set the unit to operate in 1/3 of the stops, than in "T" (shutter speed priority) mode, I have to work of the 1/160s shutter speed instead of 1/180s to set my aperture in 1/3 of a stop increments. Or.. set the meter to 1/2 of a stop mode, and work of the 1/180s shutter speed but that will result in 1/2 a stop shutter speed increments. That is inconvenient! ;D

It gets you close enough that even the worst sensor possible has enough leeway to deal with it. It's not ideal, but it's not a real issue either.

 

[EduPortas]

Is there a FF nanoUSM or STM that performs great AF during video?

Still no NanoUSM, but there's the EF 24-105mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM kit mentioned in the kit options.

Check out some videos on YT. It's a very good performer.

 

[Zv]

I remember back in the day when I first got my 7D, 8FPS felt like a machine gun. Plus the 19 point AF felt so advanced at the time with all those extra modes like spot AF. I missed having those options when I switched to the 5D2 and then 6D. It was a compromise; speed and AF for superior IQ.

These specs look real good. No more compromise and a tilty-flip touchscreen to boot! (Lost track of the amount of times I've tried to press my 6D screen only to realize it's not touchscreen! Gets confusing especially since I use the EOS M regularly)

Feeling very positive.

 

[BillB]

What are the thoughts that the shutter activation will stay the same as the 6D at approx. at 100K or perhaps (hopefully, but not expected) to be increased to 150K. I know a shutter can conk out anytime, it would just be nice to see a potentially longer shutter life.
I am looking forward to this camera, it's my foot into the full frame arena.

I've never seen any evidence that there is a real relationship between camera makers' notions of expected shutter life and actual shutter life. It strikes me that this is very possibly merely a stat they use to help with price stratification.

I do know that if there were a strong relationship between expected shutter life and actual shutter life, then I - as a frequent intervalometer user - should have seen more shutter failures than I have. I go well over the stated number with all of my bodies and never have had an issue. Could be I'm just lucky, but I suspect this is a number not generated by engineers.

If the number has something to do with when Canon is willing to pay for shutter repair costs, the number may well be conservative

 

[SecureGSM]

it is an annoyence you can happily push shadows 5 stops, apparently. that is what they say on DPReview.
Silly me setting up exposures in studio in 1/10 of a stop increments when I should just shoot away in ETTL mode. not being sarcastic. friendly mode is on. But seriously.. [joke] Canon "nerfed" 6D X-Sync speed to annoy studio shooters with 1/2 stop 1/3 stop discrepancies and to force them to use 5D cameras instead [/joke]

1/6 of the stop.. right... but could be such a pain in the neck. let me explain:

My Sekonic 478 light meter operates in full, 1/2, or 1/3 of a stop mode. If I set the unit to operate in 1/3 of the stops, than in "T" (shutter speed priority) mode, I have to work of the 1/160s shutter speed instead of 1/180s to set my aperture in 1/3 of a stop increments. Or.. set the meter to 1/2 of a stop mode, and work of the 1/180s shutter speed but that will result in 1/2 a stop shutter speed increments. That is inconvenient! ;D

It gets you close enough that even the worst sensor possible has enough leeway to deal with it. It's not ideal, but it's not a real issue either.

 

[Etienne]

It would be a great camera if it offered interchangeable screens.
Without that feature, it's an SLR that can't be focused by eye. About as useful as a chocolate teapot.

Right, because no one uses autofocus? That was a fairly pointless post. I see you are annoyed you can't change the focus screen, especially as the Mk1 could do this. But you have to agree you are in a minority on this.

Canon may still add focus peaking to the 6D2, which would be highly welcomed!
.... eternally optimistic

I appreciate the optimism, but there's zero chance of that happening through the viewfinder in this style of camera at this price point, IMHO.

Also, one would expect a dedicated button to flip from OVF to EVF to pull that off, and I don't see that button in any of the leaks.

- A

I'll be happy if they just add focus peaking to the live view and movie modes

 

[tr573]

it is an annoyence you can happily push shadows 5 stops, apparently. that is what they say on DPReview.
Silly me setting up exposures in studio in 1/10 of a stop increments when I should just shoot away in ETTL mode. not being sarcastic. friendly mode is on. But seriously.. [joke] Canon "nerfed" 6D X-Sync speed to annoy studio shooters with 1/2 stop 1/3 stop discrepancies and to force them to use 5D cameras instead [/joke]

1/6 of the stop.. right... but could be such a pain in the neck. let me explain:

My Sekonic 478 light meter operates in full, 1/2, or 1/3 of a stop mode. If I set the unit to operate in 1/3 of the stops, than in "T" (shutter speed priority) mode, I have to work of the 1/160s shutter speed instead of 1/180s to set my aperture in 1/3 of a stop increments. Or.. set the meter to 1/2 of a stop mode, and work of the 1/180s shutter speed but that will result in 1/2 a stop shutter speed increments. That is inconvenient! ;D

It gets you close enough that even the worst sensor possible has enough leeway to deal with it. It's not ideal, but it's not a real issue either.

Why do you have a 400$ lightmeter and a base/budget camera? 8)

I fully recognize it's a nuisance, and a silly marketing distinction. I just think the amount of handwringing people (especially ones who very obviously from their complaints knew next to nothing about using flash) did over it with the original 6D was ridiculous. One guy once told me that it made it harder for him to control ambient light for studio shots. 1/6th of a stop too much ambient light, like really? In your studio?

 

[LonelyBoy]

It would be a great camera if it offered interchangeable screens.
Without that feature, it's an SLR that can't be focused by eye. About as useful as a chocolate teapot.

To you, maybe. I would suggest that most people are fine with AF for most purposes, given the number of people who shoot bodies that don't allow changeable focus screens, nevermind that most people with a 6D or 1DX don't change the screen anyway.

 

[ahsanford]

Is there a FF nanoUSM or STM that performs great AF during video?

There are only two Nano USM lenses to my knowledge:

EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM (so, not FF)

EF 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS II USM (FF)

...though more are surely on the way. We're expecting an EF 50 f/1.4 USM II (eventually :) that logically would pack Nano instead of ring USM, and one might imagine the refresh of the entire 'mid-level non-L prime' line like the 85 f/1.8 USM, 100 f/2 USM, etc. would be candidates for Nano as well.

So if you want smooth AF for video right now, you are basically looking at the various STM lenses Canon currently offers for EF. The 24-105 f/3.5-5.6 IS STM comes to mind as a general purpose move, but I defer to people that actually shoot video to comment on that.

- A

 

[SecureGSM]

$300 light meter, btw oh, for an obvious reason: I bought 2 x 6D's for the price of a single 5D. and it all quickly adds up. I would love to shoot with 2 x 5DM4 body but cannot afford so have to shoot with 2 x 6D instead.
There are things that we want and things that we need.

Why do you have a 400$ lightmeter and a base/budget camera? 8)

OMG, I missed that bit of important knowledge.. quick, what Youtube video should I watch if I wanted to learn how to control my ambient light in studio??

One guy once told me that it made it harder for him to control ambient light for studio shots.

 

[tr573]

OMG, I missed that bit of important knowledge.. quick, what Youtube video should I watch if I wanted to learn how to control my ambient light in studio??

"Blackout curtains?" : ;D

 

[CanonCams]

Actually... The new metering system in 6D II is pretty much identical to the one in 5D IV?
Which is quite exciting for ETTL run and gun shooters. Better White Balance and accurate exposures. What's not to like?

7560 pixels RGB + IR metering sensor

Pretty much identical, except for the 5DIV's 142,440 additional pixels.

Well, thats not good. :-\

 

[SecureGSM]

oh yeah.. H&S issue! Eyes fatique from slow blinking shutter / OVF blackout at 1/160 sec. I get that alot.. hmmm... should start shooting in HSS mode in studio. right. off to Youtube to learn about.. wait a minute? my Sekonic 478 cannot meter in HSS mode. oh, noooes. I need new light meter. quick..

OMG, I missed that bit of important knowledge.. quick, what Youtube video should I watch if I wanted to learn how to control my ambient light in studio??

"Blackout curtains?" : ;D

 

[Bernard]

Is it still a question in light of the leaks? I thought the tell-tale latch/button feature (to get access to the screen) you can see from the front view of the leaked photos was not there for the 6D2.

It's a question of cost. The latch mechanism is cheap enough, but the screen itself has to be aligned within a few microns. That's tough to do in a high-volume camera.

The same logic goes for "98%" screen coverage. It gives them a 2% leeway, which saves a lot of adjustment on the production line (in other words, every 6DII shows 98%, but they may not show the same 98%, some are be a tad high, some to the left, etc...).

It's really unfortunate for those of us who need to focus manually, but I can see how it allows Canon to build the cameras to a price point.
I would be satisfied if Canon offered a screen swap service though their repair branch. It's worth the extra expense to me.

 

[Adelino]

Which lens now? I don't have any of the kit lenses. I have a nifty 50, an 85 1.8, 70-300, 28-135. I suppose I would like one of the 24-105s for the reach and versatility. I'm not into video but STM sounds nice. I was disappointed that the L update was not much some people have stated preferences for the original L. Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[Loswr]

I can achieve critical focus where I want it when focusing a fast manual prime through the viewfinder with a stock -A screen. Maybe you don't have that skill. You're right...there is room for all sorts.

No you can not.

There's an optical reason why a focusing screen that is optimized for slower lenses can not be focused critically with faster lenses. The short version is that the screen itself only show f:2.8 (or 4.0) DoF at best.

Any number of basic optical texts explain this. I'm sorry if this comes across as snarky and pedantic, but it's true.

EDIT: I highly recommend reading "Camera Technology: The Dark Side of the Lens" by Norman Goldberg if you would like to understand this better.

In fact, I can.

Frankly, you're coming across as a jerk, starting with the implacation that putting the focal plane where I want it is irrelevant for 'my style of photography'. I'm really not sure who would consider the position of the plane of focus irrelevant to their photography.

But beyond that, you're coming across as someone who is very technically inclined (which applies to me, as well), but lacks substantial practical experience (and note that I'm not saying you lack such experience, merely that you sound that way).

Of course, I understand that the stock screen trades DoF for brightness with slower lenses. Perhaps you missed my previous reply in this very thread (not to mention the countless times I've explained that concept on these boards):

Those 'specialist' lenses are f/2.8 or slower, meaning the stock screen shows the true DoF. Even without a high-precision screen, a fast manual prime can still be focused with good accuracy. Granted, the matte screen makes it easier...but to say that the lack thereof means it can't be focused by eye is a pretty egregious bit of hyperbole.

Or perhaps you read it, and merely failed to grasp the implied converse of the above statement.

In fact, manual focusing is usually a dynamic process, not a static one. If you can assess the degree of defocus both in front and behind your desired plane of focus, and have an understanding of the distribution of the DoF around the focal plane as it relates to focal length and subject distance, then it's quite possible to reliably achieve critical manual focus with a fast prime and the stock -A screen, despite the fact that you can't see that true DoF in the viewfinder.

I could recommend ample literature from one of my fields of expertise – optical microscopy – stating that the resolution of a system is ultimately limited by diffraction...a 'fact' that was noted close to 150 years ago by Ernst Abbe, who approximated that limit as 1/2 the illuminating wavelength (e.g. ~250 nm for green light, and note that I'm significantly simplfying the relevant concepts here). That's technically true, except for some modern 'loopholes' that are collectively termed superresolution microscopy, and through various techniques make it possible for a light microscope to resolve structures separated by a distance of less than λ/2. Interestingly, and not coincidentally, many of those techniques have a temporal component, i.e. through dynamic imaging the system can overcome the physical limitation on performance.

If I give you a ruler with markings only in centimeters, technically you cannot measure an object to an accuracy of 5 mm. However, I suspect that in practice, you could do just that with a high degree of accuracy and precision. So please, before you so arrogantly declare that I cannot possibly achieve critical focus with a fast prime and a stock viewfinder screen because the true DoF cannot be directly seen in the VF, give some consideration to the fact that others may have abilities and/or skills that you lack. Fortunately, you can learn by practice, so if you do get a 6DII, I'd suggest you mount your fast, manual primes and learn to focus with them using the -A screen. You may be pleasantly surprised at the outcome.

 

[The Flasher]

Tilt screen, much improved af, main reasons to upgrade from 6d. Lack of second card slot is too bad but not a deal breaker. I've sold my 6d while the resale was still high, bought the 5d4. Happy with that until the 5dsr2 drops eventually.

 

[m8547]

How much better is the "7560 pixel RGB + IR metering sensor" versus the old 63 zone metering? Will this camera have iTR servo AF?