Canon EOS 7D Mark II AF Issues

[East Wind Photography]

Yeah thats a good point. It's a habit you need to build to use it quickly and effectively.

Part of the setting is to enable BBF (default for AF-ON) and if you want to go right to spot focus you can set the * button for that. However you also need to set the shutter button for metering lock only. It's separate from the AF-ON setting but it is required to suspend AF in mid pan or to instantly disable AF so you can manual focus while still having metering and IS on and active.

Hi tron.
Give yourself a chance on BBF, it will take a while to get used to so don't quit after a short test, also don't swap just before any important event, you will forget to focus some times until you retire your brain to BBF! ;D

Cheers, Graham.

Question: Some may say that using Back Button focusing is faster. Up to now I have not tried it for birds since I do not find it practical. Only for shooting landscapes with a tripod.

Any opinions, facts, observations on that?

I set AF-on for center point and the * AE lock button to AF-on center spot. By using either button I can quickly go to regular AF mode or spot AF mode when I need to target a smaller subject.

For birds in flight and sports, back button AF is essential. For servo to work properly you need target the subject maybe a second before you shoot so AF can predict where it needs to be during the shutter fire.

Another benefit of back button AF only is that it's easier to manual focus when you need to. Just take your finger off the button.

I also set the front dof button to switch between servo and one shot and between that and the back buttons I can cover most everything. I wish the 7d2 would let you program a button for single shot silent to high speed drive mode. I guess I need to get a 1dx for that function.

Thanks. I will make some BBF experiments to compare results but I have used EOS cameras the classical way for many years and I will tend to think the other way. It is worth a try though (especially experimenting with the birds moving away...)

Thank's both of you for sound advise and encouragement. Even without BBF the 3rd attempt was satisfactory (OK that was with 100-400 and had higher ISO due to 5.6 but anyway there were many ultra sharp 300 2.8 pictures).

Up to now BBF is perfect for shooting with tripod static distant scenes ( > 1 Km) where I do not wish the lens to try to focus every time. The temple is rumored to stay in place ;D ... and the moon rising behind it will not fly away

So for this case this is my favorite method (in conjunction with focus preset)

Two interesting articles I have found are:

http://www.dpreview.com/articles/9174241280/configuring-your-5d-mark-iii-af-for-fast-action

http://mikeatkinson.net/Tutorial-9-Photographing-Birds-in-Flight.htm

For landscape i just use one shot or manual focus using 10x live view. Though I can see the benefit of using it for this purpose. The problem comes when you have to switch your mindset between BBF and normal front button AF. Too confusing for me. I just use BBF for everything and shut off AF on the front shutter button. Always works the same no matter what subject I'm shooting.

I always try to keep my workflows as simple as possible. Change is tough but if it makes the task at hand simpler then in the long run its worth it. One would think front button AF would be simpler but it's not considering the many exceptions where you would not want the camera to AF on the shutter button.

 

[East Wind Photography]

Hi everyone, I'm hoping to get your opinions on this... I had been looking forward to getting the 7D Mark II ever since it was announced, and 2 months ago I finally bought it after selling my t3i. At first I was amazed by everything it has to offer (65 point AF, 10 fps, etc), but soon I got the feeling that something was off with the AF. I felt that it must be because I'm still not adept at using such a sophisticated AF system, and thought, "come on, what are the odds that I got a defective copy?"

But even after using it for 2 months, I couldn't shake the feeling that something was wrong. Did some googling and came to this forum. It's not like I've never gotten shots that are tack sharp--it's just that more often than not, the picture looks fuzzy/mushy/soft even when there's no obvious reason for it. I'm still not sure if it's a) a skill issue--just need to learn the camera better; b) a real problem with the camera; or c) a mixture of both. Would love to hear your opinions.

Please take a look at these pictures -- the first (northern mocking bird) is a picture taken with my Canon t3i at ISO 200, 250mm, f/5.6, 1/400s using the Canon EFS 55-250mm IS.

https://flic.kr/p/veK7ir

The second picture (tree swallow) is taken with my 7D Mark II with the exact same lens at similar settings; ISO 250, 250mm, f/5.6, but much higher shutter speed, 1/1000s.

https://flic.kr/p/veK6wM

The 7DmII tree swallow was taken under brighter lighting condition (sunny morning) than the t3i mocking bird (cloudy morning) and at a higher shutter speed -- doesn't make much sense that the mocking bird is still so much sharper (note details in the feathers).

But, as I said, there are also times when I end up with shots that make me think, "nah, there's nothing wrong with this camera," like these two pictures, both taken with the same lens (although stopped down significantly and at close to minimum focusing distance, so not exactly a fair comparison with the t3i mocking bird picture).

https://flic.kr/p/veMRB6
https://flic.kr/p/uWQNyN

Would appreciate everyone's thoughts and suggestions.

So yes the 7d2 is a huge jump from a t3i and the AF system is a not one mode fits all solution like on the t3i. Before we get into the technicals of the AF control settings, it's pretty important to micro focus adjust your camera to your lenses. Everyone here calls it AFMA. It's a tedious process but you can accomplish this by taping a newspaper onto a wall and putting some distance between you and the wall at about the distance you normally use the lens and then again further out. You run through the afma settings on the camera shooting several shots at every 5 clicks on the scale from -20 to +20 and then once you find the sequence that looks the best then shoot several shots at every click plus and minus around it until you can lock in the setting that gives you the sharpest image. For zooms you need to do it at each end of the zoom range. The 7d2 camera has a setting for wide and tele for each lens.

Once that is done, then you can start evaluating the images.

Canon it seems spends a great deal of time making sure the focus is factory adjusted on cameras that dont allow you to make afma adjustments like the t3i. For the 7d2 they just assume you will do this as you want the very best from your lenses and camera.

That aside, the AF system is very complex and it takes some time to figure out the best settings for the job at hand. That being said there are enough 7d2 reports of improperly mounted mirror boxes to warrant concern. However it's difficult to diagnose a mirror box problem until you have the afma locked in. The images you posted that are fuzzy look very much like the focus is off.

 

[privatebydesign]

I never got on with BBF, but I do get on well with back button to turn focus off, I find this far more intuitive and less stressful on my thumb. I also get far fewer non focused shots!

 

[dupguy]

I purchased my 7D MK II in January prior to a trip in Central America. When I came back, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the images I had captured. Since then I have been trying to understand exactly what was going on with my camera. I had a lot of shots out of focus or when they were in focus, the focus was soft. After sending the camera to Canon twice, I had the body replaced a few weeks ago thx to a special insurance that I had bought when I initially purchased the camera. I then went to test my new body with my EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens. With the camera mounted on a tripod, AI Servo, Spot AF and Back Button Focus (BBF), I was getting less than 25% of my images in focus...focusing was random and all over the place...so, same issue existed with the 2nd body...yesterday, I decided to disable BBF and use the shutter to start the focus...all of a sudden all my images were extremely sharp and in focus, even when the camera was handheld and the AF point pointing at the eye/head of a great blue heron (very small target)...the images were very sharp and on par with shots taken with my 5D MKIII...I am not a novice with BBF and have been using it for more than 5 years with my 40D, 50D, 5D MK III, and now 7D MK II. The first thing I do when I take the camera out of the box is to turn BBF ON and set the AF to AI Servo. So I am left wondering whether or not there is a conflict (software or hardware or both) with the BBF functionality (AF-ON) and shutter to start the metering and capture...BTW, I am using the latest firmware ver 1.04. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue...

 

[GadgetBoy]

Just a little word to tell you that I'm not the only one to encounter focus trouble with the central focus point with the 7D Mk II and the Canon 17-55 f/2.8. I found another people who describe the same trouble.
The workaround is to use another focus point, which is a shame.
Canon still did not answer to the letter I sent them a month and a half now.

 

[Mt Spokane Photography]

I purchased my 7D MK II in January prior to a trip in Central America. When I came back, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the images I had captured. Since then I have been trying to understand exactly what was going on with my camera. I had a lot of shots out of focus or when they were in focus, the focus was soft. After sending the camera to Canon twice, I had the body replaced a few weeks ago thx to a special insurance that I had bought when I initially purchased the camera. I then went to test my new body with my EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens. With the camera mounted on a tripod, AI Servo, Spot AF and Back Button Focus (BBF), I was getting less than 25% of my images in focus...focusing was random and all over the place...so, same issue existed with the 2nd body...yesterday, I decided to disable BBF and use the shutter to start the focus...all of a sudden all my images were extremely sharp and in focus, even when the camera was handheld and the AF point pointing at the eye/head of a great blue heron (very small target)...the images were very sharp and on par with shots taken with my 5D MKIII...I am not a novice with BBF and have been using it for more than 5 years with my 40D, 50D, 5D MK III, and now 7D MK II. The first thing I do when I take the camera out of the box is to turn BBF ON and set the AF to AI Servo. So I am left wondering whether or not there is a conflict (software or hardware or both) with the BBF functionality (AF-ON) and shutter to start the metering and capture...BTW, I am using the latest firmware ver 1.04. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue...

There have been a number of posts from photographers with AF issues. Some are just lack of proper technique, but a significant number come from experienced photographers who do have camera issues.

Purchasing a 7D MK II from a major retailer with a 30 day exchange policy seems to be a good idea. Just be ruthless about it, test it thoroughly, and don't hesitate to return or exchange a defective camera.

I suspect that the gray market prices are low due to this issue, it may cost less in the long run to pay $200 more and get one that can be exchanged if its bad.

 

[digital paradise]

I purchased my 7D MK II in January prior to a trip in Central America. When I came back, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the images I had captured. Since then I have been trying to understand exactly what was going on with my camera. I had a lot of shots out of focus or when they were in focus, the focus was soft. After sending the camera to Canon twice, I had the body replaced a few weeks ago thx to a special insurance that I had bought when I initially purchased the camera. I then went to test my new body with my EF300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens. With the camera mounted on a tripod, AI Servo, Spot AF and Back Button Focus (BBF), I was getting less than 25% of my images in focus...focusing was random and all over the place...so, same issue existed with the 2nd body...yesterday, I decided to disable BBF and use the shutter to start the focus...all of a sudden all my images were extremely sharp and in focus, even when the camera was handheld and the AF point pointing at the eye/head of a great blue heron (very small target)...the images were very sharp and on par with shots taken with my 5D MKIII...I am not a novice with BBF and have been using it for more than 5 years with my 40D, 50D, 5D MK III, and now 7D MK II. The first thing I do when I take the camera out of the box is to turn BBF ON and set the AF to AI Servo. So I am left wondering whether or not there is a conflict (software or hardware or both) with the BBF functionality (AF-ON) and shutter to start the metering and capture...BTW, I am using the latest firmware ver 1.04. I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this issue...

There have been a number of posts from photographers with AF issues. Some are just lack of proper technique, but a significant number come from experienced photographers who do have camera issues.

Purchasing a 7D MK II from a major retailer with a 30 day exchange policy seems to be a good idea. Just be ruthless about it, test it thoroughly, and don't hesitate to return or exchange a defective camera.

I suspect that the gray market prices are low due to this issue, it may cost less in the long run to pay $200 more and get one that can be exchanged if its bad.

Yes. Technique, selecting a simple AF mode and appropriate shutter speeds will take you much further than mucking around with all the settings if you are not that familiar with the camera. There is no reason it should not be able to take an in focus shot in one shot. If my wife who has no idea of how to use it can do it so can anyone. In AI Servo there is no reason you can't get a decent capture using factory settings which is basically case 1 for any steady moving object.

Case 1 is more than adequate for most moving targets. I did it. I sent mine to Canon but by the time I got it back winter had set in hard and there were not much to work with. It sat for almost 4 months. One day I went birding and shot in cases 1, 2, 5 and 6 and used single, expansion and zone AF for each case and had great success. Case 1 did just a good of a job. It was like shooting fish in a barrel. These were larger birds that were fast as they flew by but they were steady. Not erratic.

No manufacturer is going to release a camera that takes a month of studying the manual to start to get good shots. If a person has experience and has applied good technique, etc then you they should be getting great shots basically taking camera out of the box and slapping a lens on it. People have done it.

 

[Snowbird]

My post in reply to this thread met with a header:

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 45 days....

have the 7D Mark II AF issues been rectified?

I started to be interested in this topic when my 7D Mark II gave me so little keepers that I'm beginning to loose faith in it. I'm familiar with the settings and have gone through it many times. Most of the time I would shoot using a tripod and even when the subject ain't moving, with focus locked onto its eye, the end result is a dismay!

I had sent it back to Canon once and the situation remains much the same. My entire setup of the 7DII, 100-400 F4.5/5.6L II and a 1.4X III are back with them again currently for further checks for the past week after I discovered something which doesn't seem normal - I had mounted the camera on a tripod and shot a newsprint some 3-4 metres away with both the mirror up and mirror down using a remote cable release and noticed a distinct shift in the final images....

The Manfrotto carbon tripod with a fluid movie head had all the knobs tightened and was sturdy and the setup was mounted on the telephoto's collar foot and I'm wondering what had caused it? Can it be a mirror box issue? Or is it a sensor issue?

The service centre gladly took it back when I raised the issue and the AF issues that I had and I'm still awaiting for their call ....

 

[East Wind Photography]

My post in reply to this thread met with a header:

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 45 days....

have the 7D Mark II AF issues been rectified?

I started to be interested in this topic when my 7D Mark II gave me so little keepers that I'm beginning to loose faith in it. I'm familiar with the settings and have gone through it many times. Most of the time I would shoot using a tripod and even when the subject ain't moving, with focus locked onto its eye, the end result is a dismay!

I had sent it back to Canon once and the situation remains much the same. My entire setup of the 7DII, 100-400 F4.5/5.6L II and a 1.4X III are back with them again currently for further checks for the past week after I discovered something which doesn't seem normal - I had mounted the camera on a tripod and shot a newsprint some 3-4 metres away with both the mirror up and mirror down using a remote cable release and noticed a distinct shift in the final images....

The Manfrotto carbon tripod with a fluid movie head had all the knobs tightened and was sturdy and the setup was mounted on the telephoto's collar foot and I'm wondering what had caused it? Can it be a mirror box issue? Or is it a sensor issue?

The service centre gladly took it back when I raised the issue and the AF issues that I had and I'm still awaiting for their call ....

I think the consensus is that the af is about as good as any of the other late models with the exception of the 1dx2 which is a notch better in the keeper rate. My 7d2 focuses pretty flawlessly so if you are not happy with it, I would send it back while it's still covered.

Is there a possibility that it's the lenses you are using? I use all L series and the two lenses I have that are not, one I MF with for star fields, and the other is used exclusively for video since the Af is in fact slow...but it has an incredible zoom range.

 

[rpt]

My post in reply to this thread met with a header:

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 45 days....

have the 7D Mark II AF issues been rectified?

I started to be interested in this topic when my 7D Mark II gave me so little keepers that I'm beginning to loose faith in it. I'm familiar with the settings and have gone through it many times. Most of the time I would shoot using a tripod and even when the subject ain't moving, with focus locked onto its eye, the end result is a dismay!

I had sent it back to Canon once and the situation remains much the same. My entire setup of the 7DII, 100-400 F4.5/5.6L II and a 1.4X III are back with them again currently for further checks for the past week after I discovered something which doesn't seem normal - I had mounted the camera on a tripod and shot a newsprint some 3-4 metres away with both the mirror up and mirror down using a remote cable release and noticed a distinct shift in the final images....

The Manfrotto carbon tripod with a fluid movie head had all the knobs tightened and was sturdy and the setup was mounted on the telephoto's collar foot and I'm wondering what had caused it? Can it be a mirror box issue? Or is it a sensor issue?

The service centre gladly took it back when I raised the issue and the AF issues that I had and I'm still awaiting for their call ....

I think the consensus is that the af is about as good as any of the other late models with the exception of the 1dx2 which is a notch better in the keeper rate. My 7d2 focuses pretty flawlessly so if you are not happy with it, I would send it back while it's still covered.

Is there a possibility that it's the lenses you are using? I use all L series and the two lenses I have that are not, one I MF with for star fields, and the other is used exclusively for video since the Af is in fact slow...but it has an incredible zoom range.

+1

I have no problem with mine.

 

[pwp]

I purchased my 7D MK II in January prior to a trip in Central America. When I came back, I was extremely disappointed with the quality of the images I had captured....

So did you break the Golden Rule of testing new equipment before using on a job or taking on a trip?
FWIW my 7D II is highly consistent with great AF, a higher keeper rate than my now retired 1D Mk4.

-pw

 

[weixing]

My post in reply to this thread met with a header:

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 45 days....

have the 7D Mark II AF issues been rectified?

I started to be interested in this topic when my 7D Mark II gave me so little keepers that I'm beginning to loose faith in it. I'm familiar with the settings and have gone through it many times. Most of the time I would shoot using a tripod and even when the subject ain't moving, with focus locked onto its eye, the end result is a dismay!

I had sent it back to Canon once and the situation remains much the same. My entire setup of the 7DII, 100-400 F4.5/5.6L II and a 1.4X III are back with them again currently for further checks for the past week after I discovered something which doesn't seem normal - I had mounted the camera on a tripod and shot a newsprint some 3-4 metres away with both the mirror up and mirror down using a remote cable release and noticed a distinct shift in the final images....

The Manfrotto carbon tripod with a fluid movie head had all the knobs tightened and was sturdy and the setup was mounted on the telephoto's collar foot and I'm wondering what had caused it? Can it be a mirror box issue? Or is it a sensor issue?

The service centre gladly took it back when I raised the issue and the AF issues that I had and I'm still awaiting for their call ....

Hi,
What's the shutter speed?? Did you off the IS??

Have a nice day.

 

[FEBS]

I wish the 7d2 would let you program a button for single shot silent to high speed drive mode. I guess I need to get a 1dx for that function.

Just forget it. The 1Dx is a real machine gun. You will hear it from far. Also 1DxII is still loud compared with 5D3 or 7D2.