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And mine is empty, time for a refill!I think you don't have enough glass
The review from Camera Labs has one:I'm not finding a good chart that helps visualize the difference between 10mm and 14mm (or 15mm) on a FF body.
Any good links?
Thank you! That's a lot more real estate at 10mm.The review from Camera Labs has one:
Canon RF 10-20mm f4L IS review-so-far | Cameralabs
www.cameralabs.com
Share some pics if you canShould be an interesting lens. I hope I have a copy by the end of the week.
Sting - Fill Her UpAnd mine is empty, time for a refill!
It’s a ”review so-far”, which means he has just read the specs and perhaps picked it up at a preview.Yeah, Gordon's review came out on the 11th.
Canon RF 10-20mm f4L IS review-so-far | Cameralabs
www.cameralabs.com
A 21mm and a 24mm gives a different look to an image. It's easy to see this focal range as just a number, and yet thet create different looking images. Another example is the difference between a 28mm and a 24mm view. They seem to create a slightly different look and feel to an image.The gap between 20mm and 24mm does not seem significant, is it really large enough that you would require another lens to fill it?
I agree, it's the general build that I was commenting on. My Old EF 135L has been dropped several times, it's a very front heavy lens that likes to topple out of my camera bag (these days i use a camera bag where I can aly this lens down on it's side). My copy has dropped out of my hands and bounced onto a cobbled pavement more times that I would care to mention. It has a polycarb body shell and the part the needed replaceing the most was the metal lens mount ring, three times I've had that part replaced on my copy. I dropped my 70-200/2.8 II LIS once on a hard floor and that was far more catestrophic. It's got a lot of metal in it's construction, but as another has commented, it's also a lot bigger and heavier. So it hit the floor with a lot more mass. I'm sure dropping 700g lens is less of an engineering problem than at 1.5Kg lens. I also think that the extra engineering that is required to make silent AF systems for Videographers and the inclusion of IS units and elements makes a lens slightly more fragile than the older and simpler designs. I wonder if the new (and rather spectacular) RF 135 L IS is as resistant to cobbled pavements as the old EF model, not that I would like to intentionally bounce a RF 135 L IS! Subjective, I know.I do not understand why people equate metal with durable. The composites used in current lenses, especially the higher grade ones in L-series lenses, are more robust than the metal alloys used previously and much lighter.
From my experiances of using EF glass professionally over the last 20 years it is apparent to me that the newer coatings are slightly more suspeptable to scratches than the older coatings, but way easier to clean. I far prefer the newer coatings, especially with the newer BR and SWC. The newer lenses flare way less.I haven’t. I do keep a B+W clear filter on lenses (except the really cheap ones). I have had to clean the bulbous front elements on my 11-24 and TS-E 17 occasionally, have not had an issue. Obviously using proper technique is important.
Check out the Fotodiox Wonderpana system. I used their 145mm filters and holder with my TS-E 17, they also make one for the 11-24 (using their 186 mm filters). ND gels are a bit fiddly, but they work. However, there is no CPL option for that.
Check out the Fotodiox Wonderpana system. I used their 145mm filters and holder with my TS-E 17, they also make one for the 11-24 (using their 186 mm filters). ND gels are a bit fiddly, but they work. However, there is no CPL option for that.
Another meaningless complaint, IMO. I understand it, because I once felt that way myself. Then I actually tested it.
Prior to digital correction, the RF 14-35/4 also has strong barrel distortion and black corners at the wide end, and thus requires distortion correction to produce a usable image. After that correction is applied, the corners are just as sharp as the EF 11-24/4, which at 13-14 mm is essentially distortion free.
For Jared's use case scenario...yes it's an amazing lens for him.Jared has his review up
tl;dw: he likes it
Also interesting how usable that uncorrected<10mm image was in the night shot. Probably a very rare occurrence that the vignetting in the corners doesn't stick out, but still kind of cool that you have the option to do that.For Jared's use case scenario...yes it's an amazing lens for him.
Yes, I never realised how an uncorrected lens can add so much extra wide super-duper focal length! It's a remarkable difference and actually a serious useful accidental feature. It's re-writing my opinion of software / profile lens correction!Also interesting how usable that uncorrected<10mm image was in the night shot. Probably a very rare occurrence that the vignetting in the corners doesn't stick out, but still kind of cool that you have the option to do that.
Fair enough. For me, in many cases the difference between 21mm and 24mm is a few steps forward.A 21mm and a 24mm gives a different look to an image. It's easy to see this focal range as just a number, and yet thet create different looking images. Another example is the difference between a 28mm and a 24mm view. They seem to create a slightly different look and feel to an image.
Vignetting is not unique to digitally corrected lenses. The RF 14-35/4 has about 2.3 stops in the corners at 14mm f/4, that's much less than many EF lenses (e.g. the 16-35/4 has over 3 stops, the 16-35/2.8 III and 11-24/4 have >4 stops). While I agree that the exposure adjustment needed to correct that vignetting adds noise and reduces DR, that has always been the case. In terms of vignetting, the RF 15-35/2.8 is similar to its predecessor and the RF 14-35/4 is better, needing less exposure increase in at the periphery.A fair comment.
Let me explan my point of view in more detail and please feel free to dissargree and comment yours. It's an awesome forum and we all have different perspectives. Debating and sharing our views helps with our education and I'm more than happy to be proved wrong...it's a way of learning. I may be a bit of a luddite, but I'm not intransient. I'm always up for a re-learn.
If a lens needs heavy correction and several stops of vignette exposure correction, there where does that data come from? Obviously the image file's DR. If a lens needs 2 stops of edge brightening, then that's 3 stops of extra noise and three stops of less DR I have as a photographer to use in post processing. If the image is being stretched and pulled significantly, then again that can affect the post production. Sure, I grant you that Ai is getting better all the time, but at the moment...it's a simple negative vignette mask and a geometric distortion propfile that is being applied.
Sure this available technology isn't there to literally cut corners on their lens design but to help photographers get the best results possible in their photographs.
It's just occurred to me how crazy it is that we are dicussing the particular merits of 10-20mm and 14-35mm lenses....it's amazing how these focal lengths are so much easier to access these days.
Gordon takes advantage of the sameness of the Brighton sky.No lines per mm, no MTFs, but real pictures, including detailed enlarged views of the corners of images taken at different diaphragms.
I'm not finding a good chart that helps visualize the difference between 10mm and 14mm (or 15mm) on a FF body. Finding some charts, but most stop at 14mm and then jump to a fisheye. Also found a table of numbers on the Nikonians forum, but that's about it.
Any good links?
I'm onesuspect most people would choose an extra 1 mm on the wide end over an extra 4 mm on the long end in an ultra UWA lens), much (!!) lighter, and significantly cheaper, too.
LR needs to have profile correction turned off for the EF8-15mm/4 to see what was shot at the time. I haven't understood why LR does that for this lens.Also interesting how usable that uncorrected<10mm image was in the night shot. Probably a very rare occurrence that the vignetting in the corners doesn't stick out, but still kind of cool that you have the option to do that.
Doesn't LR by default have profile correction applied to all new images? I've tried turning it off, and then an update puts it back on by default. This is not how LR behaved several years ago.LR needs to have profile correction turned off for the EF8-15mm/4 to see what was shot at the time. I haven't understood why LR does that for this lens.