For EF, the 135/2 was 780g vs. 180/3.5 1090g.But the 180 macro is a different beast for 2 reasons:
1: It is pretty heavy, much heavier than the EF 135
2: Even 1 EV shake reduction means a lot in, for instance, a 1/1 hand-held macro situation.
That's why I'd welcome an optically stabilized 180-200mm RF macro.
For RF, the 135/1.8 is 935g.
For me these are all pretty much in the same ballpark. I owned the first two from about the month they went on sale in the 90s, until this year and last year. Having owned IS lenses from the first 75-300 in like 1995, until today, I don't think lens weight has much effect on handholdability.
1 stop IS certainly will be good in SOME situations but consider it that way: without that extra stop you can simply double your ISO. Are there images that are fine at ISO X but cannot be used at ISO X*2?? Or open up one stop: are there images at f/11 that simply fail at f/8? I don't really think that's the case. I'd agree one would be slightly preferable, but photography is the art of the possible. If you can't shoot f/11, you simply shoot f/8, and make a great picture with the settings you're forced to use.
Just doing a sanity check: If shooting macro on sunny day, the "sunny 16" rule says you could shoot ISO 200 f/16 at 1/200. Hazy f/11, partly cloudy f/8, cloudy f/5.6, overcast f/4. Now to make a worst-case overcast shot that needs f/22? Starting at the rule, you have ISO 200 f/4 1/200, and can go to ISO 200 f/22 1/6 from there. That's a REALLY cloudy day with a ridiculously small aperture, and quite hand-holdable I think (my tests of the EF 135 show you can get pretty good results at 1/4 on an R5). You only need that extra stop if you're shooting hand-held macro at dusk or dawn AND don't need to stop motion. Of course the best photos are when you do what no-one else is doing, but I just don't see ANYONE shooting natural-light hand-held macro at dusk or dawn. I haven't been a pro shooter in decades but I guess I don't see what real-world case one more stop might be critical.
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